Celsius Restaurant and Bar, Gouger St, Adelaide
Opened in 2010 and appearing at #65 in the Australian Gourmet Traveller 2012 Restaurant
Awards: The top 100, Celsius is a dramatic and appealing addition to the
many eateries on Gouger Street.
Head Chef Ayhan Erkoc is a young man with the creativity,
talent and deft touch some veteran chefs can only dream of. His restaurant Celsius embodies his vision;
serving organic, fresh and unique dishes that mesmerise the senses.
Unable to decide on what to order, both myself and my
partner opted for the eight course degustation menu. At only $120 ($180 if you
include matching wines), we couldn’t go pass it.
Every course was
exquisite.
If I had to pick a favourite it would be the caramelised veal sweet breads with forest
mushroom, hazelnut and parsnip. The sweet, sticky and gorgeously tender
sweetbread was delightfully complimented by the earthy mushrooms and wholesome
parsnip. This exquisitely mouth-watering dish was a highlight, and most definitely
something I will have again.
I was astounded by the cheese course. Besace Chévre Affine, beetroot, ash, onion, smoke. A smoke filled
dome was brought to the table. With a flourish, the dome is removed and
aromatic smoke wafts towards you. The smell of something sweet; beetroot, onion
and a very rich cheese permeates your senses. The plate is simple and elegant,
white cheese dusted in ash, offset by the bright beetroot and miniature caramelised
onion rings, edges intentionally burnt. Tiny vivid flowers, delicately placed,
finish the dish to creative beauty.
Desert sounded like a simple affair. Carrot, rosemary, beer, walnut, ricotta. This neatly presented
desert demonstrated how a simple vegetable can be turned into a gastronomic
feast. A moist, rich carrot cake surrounded by gels and jelly was offset by the
bittersweet candied rosemary and rosemary sorbet. Crumbled ricotta added a
depth of texture while the bed of beer foam finished the delicate flavour of
the dish.
I must commend the excellent and professional manner of the
General Manager and waiting staff. I informed our waiter that I was allergic to
nuts and he assured me that I would be given either alternate meals or the same
with the offending items omitted. Unfortunately, as accidents do occur, half
way through our evening (and the sublime sweetbreads) I happened across a nut
puree on my plate. There could not have been more apologies. Not only did the
staff immediately hover until they were sure my health was fine (oh how
anaphylaxis can ruin your dinner…not this time though) and provide another
plate of sweetbreads, the general manager apologised in person and brought a
complementary cheese course, petit fours, and coffee for myself and my partner.
I have never been to a restaurant where such a mistake has been so graciously
amended.
For this alone, we will return to Celsius